Veiled chameleons are one of the most popular and widely available chameleons in the pet trade. They are known for their striking appearance, with a large, horn-like casque on their head, a long, curled tail, and the ability to change colors depending on their mood and environment. Veiled chameleons are native to Yemen and Saudi Arabia, where they live in a variety of habitats, from dry plateaus to coastal plains. They are highly adaptable animals, but they also have specific needs that must be met in captivity to ensure their health and well-being.
In this blog post, we will cover everything you need to know about veiled chameleon care, including:
- Choosing the right enclosure
- Providing adequate lighting and heating
- Creating a suitable humidity and ventilation system
- Offering a balanced and varied diet
- Supplementing with vitamins and minerals
- Handling and socializing your chameleon
- Recognizing signs of illness and stress
By following these guidelines, you can provide your veiled chameleon with a comfortable and enriching environment that mimics their natural habitat as closely as possible.
Choosing the Right Enclosure
Veiled chameleons are arboreal, which means they spend most of their time in trees. They need a large and tall enclosure that allows them to climb, explore, and thermoregulate. The minimum recommended enclosure size for a single veiled chameleon is 24”L x 24”W x 48”H. However, larger is always better, especially for adult males who can grow up to 24 inches long.
The best type of enclosure for veiled chameleons is a screened or mesh cage that provides good ventilation and air circulation. Glass or plastic enclosures can trap heat and humidity, which can lead to mold growth, respiratory infections, and overheating. If you use a glass or plastic enclosure, make sure it has plenty of openings for air flow.
The enclosure should be furnished with plenty of branches, vines, and live or artificial foliage to create a three-dimensional space for your chameleon to move around. The branches should be sturdy enough to support your chameleon’s weight and have different diameters to exercise their feet. The foliage should cover at least 50% of the cage to provide hiding places and shade for your chameleon.
You can also add some natural or artificial plants to the bottom of the cage to create a substrate that helps maintain humidity and absorbs waste. However, avoid using loose substrates such as sand, soil, or bark, as they can cause impaction if ingested by your chameleon.
Providing Adequate Lighting and Heating
Veiled chameleons are ectothermic, which means they rely on external sources of heat to regulate their body temperature. They need a gradient of temperatures within their enclosure, ranging from a warm basking spot to a cooler resting area. They also need exposure to ultraviolet (UV) light, which is essential for their metabolism, bone health, and coloration.
The best way to provide lighting and heating for your veiled chameleon is to use a combination of incandescent bulbs, fluorescent tubes, and LED bars. Here is a breakdown of what each type of light does and how to use it:
- Incandescent bulbs: These are the standard light bulbs that produce both heat and visible light. They can be used to create a basking spot for your chameleon, where the temperature should be around 95°F (35°C) for juveniles and 85°F (29°C) for adults. The basking spot should be located at the top of the cage, about 6-12 inches away from your chameleon’s head. You can use a dome lamp fixture with a 50-watt bulb or adjust the wattage according to the size of your cage and the ambient temperature. You can also use a dimmer switch or a thermostat to control the temperature more precisely.
- Fluorescent tubes: These are the long tubes that produce UV light, which is invisible to the human eye but vital for your chameleon’s health. There are two types of UV light: UVA and UVB. UVA stimulates your chameleon’s appetite, activity, and breeding behavior. UVB helps your chameleon synthesize vitamin D3, which is needed for calcium absorption and bone growth. You can use a T5 HO (high output) fluorescent tube with a 5.0 or 6% UVB rating . The tube should span at least two-thirds of the cage length and be placed inside or on top of the mesh screen, about 12 inches away from your chameleon’s basking spot. You can use a fixture with a reflector to increase the UV output and coverage. You should replace the tube every 6-12 months, as the UV output decreases over time.
- LED bars: These are the thin bars that produce bright, white light that mimics natural sunlight. They can be used to enhance the overall illumination and color rendition of your chameleon’s enclosure. They can also help regulate your chameleon’s circadian rhythm, which is their daily cycle of activity and rest. You can use an LED bar with a full spectrum or a jungle dawn rating. The bar should span the entire cage length and be placed on top of the mesh screen, parallel to the fluorescent tube. You can use a fixture with a dimmer switch to adjust the brightness.
You should provide your veiled chameleon with 12 hours of light and 12 hours of darkness per day. You can use a timer to automate the lighting schedule and ensure consistency. You should also monitor the temperatures and UV levels in your chameleon’s enclosure with digital thermometers and humidity gauges, as well as a UV meter if possible.
Creating a Suitable Humidity and Ventilation System
Veiled chameleons need a humid environment to keep their skin hydrated and facilitate shedding. They also need fresh air to prevent respiratory problems and fungal infections. The ideal humidity level for veiled chameleons is between 50-70%. The best way to create and maintain humidity in your chameleon’s enclosure is to use a combination of misting, dripping, and fogging systems. Here is how each system works and how to use it:
- Misting system: This is a system that sprays fine droplets of water into the air, creating a mist that increases humidity and simulates rainfall. Misting also provides drinking water for your chameleon, as they prefer to lick water droplets from leaves rather than drink from a bowl. You can use a manual spray bottle or an automatic mister to mist your chameleon’s enclosure at least twice a day, for about 15 minutes each time. You should mist in the morning and evening, when the temperatures are lower and the humidity is higher. You should also mist more frequently during shedding periods or when the humidity drops below 50%. You should use dechlorinated or filtered water for misting, as tap water may contain chemicals or minerals that can harm your chameleon or damage your equipment.
- Dripping system: This is a system that drips water slowly onto the foliage or branches in your chameleon’s enclosure, creating additional drinking opportunities and increasing humidity. Dripping also mimics dew drops that form on plants in nature. You can use a plastic bottle with a small hole in the cap or an automatic dripper to drip water into your chameleon’s enclosure for about an hour each day. You should place the dripper above your chameleon’s basking spot or near their favorite perch, where they can easily see and reach the water droplets. You should also place a catch basin or a drainage tray under the dripper to collect excess water and prevent flooding.
- Fogging system: This is a system that produces a cool vapor that increases humidity and lowers temperature. Fogging also creates a naturalistic effect that enhances the aesthetics of your chameleon’s enclosure. You can use an ultrasonic humidifier or a reptile fogger to fog your chameleon’s enclosure for about an hour each night, when the temperatures are cooler and the humidity is higher. You should place the fogger outside or below the cage, and direct the vapor through a hose or a vent into the cage. You should avoid fogging during the day, as it may interfere with your chameleon’s basking or UV exposure.
You should monitor the humidity level in your chameleon’s enclosure with digital hygrometers placed at different heights and locations. You should also ensure adequate ventilation by using a screened or mesh cage, as well as fans or vents if needed. Ventilation helps prevent mold growth, bacterial buildup, and stale air.
Offering a Balanced and Varied Diet
Veiled chameleons are omnivorous, which means they eat both plants and animals. In the wild, they feed on insects, spiders, snails, lizards, birds, and plant matter. In captivity, they need a balanced and varied diet that mimics their natural food sources.
The main staple of a veiled chameleon’s diet should be live insects, such as crickets, roaches, locusts, grasshoppers, silkworms, hornworms, and superworms. You should avoid feeding your chameleon mealworms, waxworms, or butterworms, as they are high in fat and low in nutrition. You should also avoid feeding your chameleon fireflies, as they are toxic.
You should gut-load your feeder insects before offering them to your chameleon. Gut-loading means feeding the insects a nutritious diet for at least 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. This way, your chameleon will get the nutrients from the insects’ gut contents. You can use commercial gut-load products or fresh fruits and vegetables to gut-load your insects.
You should also dust your feeder insects with calcium and vitamin supplements before feeding them to your chameleon. Calcium is essential for bone health and preventing metabolic bone disease, a common condition in captive reptiles. Vitamin supplements provide other essential nutrients that may be lacking in the insects’ diet. You should use a calcium supplement without vitamin D3 every other day, and a calcium supplement with vitamin D3 once a week. You should also use a multivitamin supplement once a week.
You should offer your chameleon insects every day if it is a juvenile, and every other day if it is an adult. You should feed your chameleon as many insects as it can eat in 15 minutes. You can use feeding tongs or a cup to offer the insects to your chameleon.
In addition to insects, you should also offer your chameleon fresh fruits and vegetables every other day. Veiled chameleons have been known to eat plant matter in the wild, and some may develop a taste for it in captivity. Fruits and vegetables provide additional vitamins, minerals, fiber, and water to your chameleon’s diet. You can use leafy greens (such as collard greens, mustard greens, dandelion greens, or kale), squash (such as butternut squash or acorn squash), carrots, sweet potatoes, apples, bananas, berries, or melons. You should avoid lettuce, spinach, cabbage, broccoli, or citrus fruits, as they can cause digestive problems or interfere with calcium absorption.
You should chop the fruits and vegetables into small pieces and place them in a shallow dish or hang them from the branches in your chameleon’s enclosure. You should remove any uneaten fruits and vegetables after 24 hours to prevent spoilage.
Supplementing with Vitamins and Minerals
As mentioned above, you should supplement your chameleon’s diet with calcium and vitamin supplements to ensure optimal health. Calcium is especially important for veiled chameleons, as they have high calcium requirements compared to other reptiles. Calcium helps build strong bones and prevent metabolic bone disease.
Vitamin supplements provide other essential nutrients that may be lacking in your chameleon’s diet or environment. For example, vitamin A helps maintain healthy eyesight and skin; vitamin B helps with nerve function and metabolism; vitamin C helps with immune system function and wound healing; vitamin D3 helps with calcium absorption and bone health; vitamin E helps with antioxidant function and reproduction; and vitamin K helps with blood clotting.
You should use a calcium supplement without vitamin D3 every other day, and a calcium supplement with vitamin D3 once a week. You should also use a multivitamin supplement once a week. You should dust your feeder insects with the supplements before offering them to your chameleon.
Some examples of reputable calcium and vitamin supplements for veiled chameleons which can be found on Amazon are:
- Arcadia EarthPro A
- Repashy Calcium Plus LoD
- Zoo Med Repti Calcium
- Zoo Med Reptivite
Handling and Socializing Your Chameleon
Veiled chameleons are not very social animals, and they do not enjoy being handled frequently. Handling can cause stress, aggression, or injury to your chameleon. Therefore, you should only handle your chameleon when necessary, such as for cleaning, health checks, or veterinary visits. When you do need to handle your chameleon, follow these steps:
- Wash your hands before and after handling your chameleon to prevent the transmission of germs or parasites.
- Approach your chameleon slowly and calmly from the side or below, not from above or behind. Avoid sudden movements or loud noises that might startle your chameleon.
- Gently place your hand under your chameleon’s belly and let it walk onto your hand. Do not grab or pull your chameleon by its tail, legs, or casque (the horn-like bump on its head).
- Support your chameleon’s body with both hands and keep it close to your chest. Do not squeeze or restrain your chameleon. Let it move freely on your hands or arms, but do not let it climb on your head or shoulders.
- Return your chameleon to its enclosure as soon as possible. Place your hand near a branch or vine and let your chameleon walk off your hand. Do not drop or toss your chameleon into its enclosure.
Some veiled chameleons may tolerate handling better than others, depending on their personality and history. If you want to socialize your chameleon and make it more comfortable with human interaction, you can try these tips:
- Spend time near your chameleon’s enclosure every day, talking softly or reading aloud to it. This will help your chameleon get used to your presence and voice.
- Offer your chameleon treats from your hand, such as worms, crickets, or fruits. This will help your chameleon associate you with positive rewards and trust you more.
- Use a plant mister or dripper to spray water on your chameleon’s enclosure while you are nearby. This will help your chameleon associate you with hydration and comfort.
- Do not force your chameleon to interact with you if it shows signs of fear or aggression, such as hissing, biting, puffing up, or darkening in color. Respect your chameleon’s boundaries and give it space when needed.
Recognizing Signs of Illness and Stress
Veiled chameleons are sensitive animals that can get sick or stressed easily if their environment or diet is not optimal. It is important to monitor your chameleon’s behavior and appearance regularly for any signs of illness or stress. Some common signs of illness or stress in veiled chameleons are:
- Loss of appetite or weight
- Lethargy or weakness
- Dehydration or sunken eyes
- Difficulty breathing or wheezing
- Swelling or discharge in the eyes, mouth, nose, or vent
- Diarrhea or constipation
- Abnormal shedding or skin lesions
- Changes in coloration (usually darker)
- Changes in posture (usually drooping)
If you notice any of these signs in your veiled chameleon, you should consult a veterinarian as soon as possible. A veterinarian who specializes in reptiles can diagnose and treat your chameleon’s condition and advise you on how to improve its care. Some common health problems that affect veiled chameleons are:
- Metabolic bone disease: This is a condition caused by calcium deficiency or vitamin D3 overdose. It affects the bones and muscles of the chameleon, causing deformities, fractures, paralysis, or death. To prevent this condition, you should provide your chameleon with a balanced diet that includes calcium-rich insects dusted with calcium supplement (with vitamin D3) every other feeding. You should also provide your chameleon with adequate UVB lighting that mimics natural sunlight and helps the chameleon synthesize vitamin D3.
- Respiratory infections: This is a condition caused by bacteria, viruses, fungi, or parasites that infect the lungs or airways of the chameleon. It causes difficulty breathing, wheezing, coughing, discharge from the nose or mouth, loss of appetite, or lethargy. To prevent this condition, you should maintain a clean and well-ventilated enclosure for your chameleon, with a temperature gradient that ranges from 72°F to 95°F and a humidity level that ranges from 50% to 70%. You should also avoid exposing your chameleon to drafts, smoke, or chemicals that might irritate its respiratory system.
- Parasites: This is a condition caused by internal or external parasites that infest the chameleon’s body. Internal parasites, such as worms or protozoa, can cause diarrhea, weight loss, anemia, or organ damage. External parasites, such as mites or ticks, can cause skin irritation, infection, or blood loss. To prevent this condition, you should quarantine any new chameleons before introducing them to your existing ones, and treat them with anti-parasitic medication if needed. You should also feed your chameleon only insects that are bred for reptile consumption, and avoid wild-caught insects that might carry parasites.
Conclusion
Veiled chameleons are amazing reptiles that can make rewarding pets for experienced and dedicated owners. However, they require specialized care and attention to stay healthy and happy in captivity. By following the tips in this blog post, you can provide your veiled chameleon with proper handling and socialization, and recognize signs of illness and stress. If you have any questions or concerns about your veiled chameleon’s care, you should always consult a veterinarian who specializes in reptiles.
